Costs & advice
Panelling around sockets, switches and radiators
The part of a panelling job that most often turns into an unexpected second trade and an unexpected second bill.
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The basic problem
Panelling adds depth to a wall — anywhere from about 9mm for a thin panel fixed directly, up to 40mm or more where battens are needed to level an uneven wall. Everything currently mounted flush with the wall is now sunk below the new surface.
For a socket or a switch that is not a cosmetic problem, it is an electrical one. The accessory has to be fixed to its box with the faceplate finishing against the surrounding surface. Leaving it in a recess is not an option.
What has to happen with sockets and switches
The back box gets brought forward to the new surface level. Depending on the wall and the depth involved, that means an extension ring on the existing box, or the box being reset. The circuit is isolated, the accessory is disconnected and refitted, and it is tested afterwards.
It is worth asking three questions of any quote: is the electrical work included, who is doing it, and are they registered.
The opportunity people miss
Since the sockets are being touched anyway, this is the cheapest moment you will ever have to put them somewhere better. Sockets at skirting level behind a bed are useless. Sockets at desk height in a home office are transformative. If you have ever thought "there should be a socket there", now is the time.
The same goes for adding a USB outlet, a network point, or a switched spur for wall lights. Moving is the expensive part; adding while an electrician is already on site is comparatively cheap.
Radiators
Three options, and they should be decided before setting out rather than on the day.
- Panel around it
- Cheapest and needs no other trade, but the layout has to be planned so the panelling does not leave an awkward strip above or beside the radiator. Done thoughtlessly it looks like the panelling gave up when it reached the radiator.
- Take it off, panel behind, refit
- Usually looks best. Needs the system drained down at that point, so a plumber. The radiator will sit slightly further into the room afterwards, so check the pipe tails and brackets have the travel.
- Move or replace it
- Sometimes the right moment to swap a bulky old radiator for a slim vertical one elsewhere on the wall. Bigger plumbing job, but it can transform what is possible with the panelling.
The other things on the wall
- Thermostats and heating controls. Same story as sockets — they need bringing forward, and they must stay accessible.
- TV aerial and media points. Bring forward, or better, run new cabling behind the panelling while it is open.
- Consumer units and meters. These must remain fully accessible. Panelling cannot box them in, and any panelling nearby has to allow the cover to open completely.
- Window reveals. The panelling has to meet the reveal cleanly, which sometimes means the reveal is lined too.
- Door architraves. Now sit proud of the new surface. Either packed out to suit, or the panelling is set out to die into them neatly.
- Skirting. Usually removed and refitted over the panelling, which almost always looks better than panelling that stops on top of the existing skirting.
Getting the sequence right
- Decide the panelling depth, because everything else follows from it
- Plumber first if a radiator is moving or coming off
- Electrician to prepare or first-fix any new socket positions
- Fitter installs battens and panelling
- Electrician returns to extend the boxes and refit the accessories
- Decorator, or the fitter if painting is included
Two electrician visits is normal on a job with any electrical element, and it is worth knowing that in advance rather than discovering it as a delay.
Common questions
Can the panel fitter extend the sockets?
Only if they are qualified to do that work. Extending a back box and refitting an accessory is electrical work, and in England and Wales it falls under Part P of the building regulations. Plenty of fitters work with an electrician regularly and coordinate it; others expect you to arrange one. Ask which.
Can I just leave the sockets sunk behind the panelling?
No. An accessory has to be fixed to its box with the faceplate finishing against the surrounding surface, and leaving a recess around a live socket is both untidy and unsafe. It also looks terrible, which people notice sooner than they notice the safety argument.
What about the radiator pipes?
If the panelling passes behind the radiator, the pipes coming up from the floor need either notching around or the radiator taking off and refitting. Either way somebody has to drain that part of the system, which is a plumbing job, not a joinery one.
Can panelling go behind a radiator?
Yes, and it usually looks better than stopping either side of it. Bear in mind you need the radiator off to do it properly, and it will sit a little further into the room afterwards, so check the brackets and pipe tails have enough travel.